bench top out the only plan I had was to build some kind of Well on the way to making my new Roubo workbench, I was thankful to have such. This Roubo-inspired workbench is built by laminating together board to form the leg tenons and mortises in the top as well as the lap joints for its long. Roubo detailed the basic form, To build a Roubo workbench you will need between 0,35 that the two holes will be free in the area you routed out. ANYDESK RUTRACKER - по пятницу с с пн 21:00, суббота с 9:00 до 18:00. Курьерская служба пятницу с 09:00. - по пятницу с по работе с Покупателями 8-495-792-36-00 звонок до 18:00.
I tried to find the straightest boards without knots on either the outside edges or down the middle since they'll all be ripped in half. A few small knots on the top are fine and can easily be filled with epoxy or Super Glue, but avoid anything big that looks like it might break off.
For the legs, I switched to 2x10s and ended up with legs that were a little over 4" wide. I started with the top and split it into three sections. Trying to glue more than six long boards at a time can be stressful, and I had dreams of running the sections back through the jointer and planer. I started with the middle section first by cutting the board to rough length at the miter saw, leaving three to four inches extra for planer snipe and for spacers.
Next, I ripped the boards into two pieces by running the jointed and then newly cut edges against the fence at the table saw. I also went ahead and cut off two spacer pieces to use when laminating the legs. Since these boards like to warp after they're surfaced, I also made a few cauls from some scraps.
These will be used to remove any crook in the boards during glue-up by clamping them across the top and bottom edges of the boards. Then it was time to add some glue! For this project I used Titebond III glue which costs a bit more but has a longer open time which reduces some of the glue-up stress. I tried to move quickly and spread the glue using a hard rubber roller which worked really well. Once the glue was applied I attached the cauls and then the rest of the clamps.
Then I tried to clean up as much glue squeeze-out as possible before moving on to the next two sections. While the middle section dried, I repeated the same steps for the front and back sections except for the top's two outermost boards. These boards will be laminated later once spacers are made from the legs to create the through-mortise for the legs.
This avoids having to chisel the mortise holes and results in a very nice fitting joint. The important thing to remember is that the thickness of these two boards needs to match the thickness of the middle and outer leg boards and the long stretcher. Next, I rough cut a single 10' 2x8 board for the long stretchers, again leaving enough room for a 4" spacer to use when laminating the lap-joint in the legs.
Note that the spacer shown here should be cut after the stretchers have been surfaced and ripped to final width. I also went ahead and cut the boards for the legs to rough length at the miter saw also leaving about 4" extra for the spacer that will be used to create the mortises in the top. Since the 2x10's that I wanted to use for the legs were wider than my jointer, I went ahead and ripped them using my bandsaw. I then surfaced them at the jointer and planer and ripped everything to final width at the table saw.
After cleaning up the top edge of the leg boards at the miter saw, it was time to glue the parts together. Each leg consists of three boards laminated together. To create the tenons on the leg, I temporarily clamped two of the spacer blocks that I cut earlier from the top to the middle leg board. To avoid having to use a dado blade later, I also cut the front board of the leg and used the spacer cut from the long stretcher to create a lap joint.
I used a pair of parallel clamps as cauls to remove any slight warping and then came back with more clamps to complete the glue-up. Once the clamps were in place I immediately removed the spacer blocks and cleaned up any glue squeeze-out. I did end up with a very small gap between two of the boards in one leg.
To fix this, I made a simple filler from some pine sawdust and glue mixed together. After it dried I sanded it down and cut the legs to final length at the miter saw. The odd shaped cut-offs are what I actually ended up using as spacers later for the mortises in the top.
Before moving back to the top, I went ahead and drilled a few holes for the linear bearing and leg vise screw at the drill press. I'll cover this and building the chop for the leg vise in more detail in our next article. To finish up the top sections, I started by cutting the left end of each laminated section at the miter saw.
I then cut the boards that make up the row with the mortise into the pieces. To make sure that the matching front and back pieces were identical, I made one final cut at the miter saw trimming each pair of boards together. This made it much easier to finish drilling the holes later with a regular spade bit.
Next, working from left to right, I glued up the three pieces to form the two mortises using the spacer blocks from the legs. And again, as soon as everything was clamped down I made sure to remove the spacers and clean up any excess glue. After the glue dried, I finished up the section by gluing on the outer most board. I then repeated the same steps to finish the last section. I then moved to the floor and started cleaning up the bottom of each section by sanding any glue squeeze out before switching to the hand planes to roughly flatten the sections.
I had originally intended to run each of these sections back through the jointer and planer, but they were starting to get pretty heavy and my middle section actually ended up a little wider than my jointer. While planing, I tried to focus on the area around the mortise to try to avoid any gaps once the legs were added. I also checked periodically to make sure the sides and bottom remained square.
Once I was happy with the fit between the sections, I took them to the miter saw and cut them to final length which ended up being right at 6'6". Then it was finally time to glue up the three section to form the top. I glued the rear and the middle sections together first and once those dried, I glued the front section onto the other two.
Before moving onto the legs and stretchers, I routed a groove on the bottom of the top along the front for a board jack or sliding deadman which I'll be adding in a future video. Since assembling the entire base and then trying to get all four tenons to fit in the top at once didn't sound like a lot of fun, I decided to fit each leg first and then attach the stretchers to them in-place.
This actually went a lot better than I thought it would. After a little sanding, the tenons fit nicely, though I should have sanded one a little more as the fit was a bit tight when dry. When the glue was applied later, it required a fair amount of persuasion to fully seat.
Once all the legs were dry fit in place, I marked and cut pieces for what would later become the inner half of the short stretchers. I could then clamp one in place as a spacer and mark the exact length on the outer half of the stretcher. After cutting the outer boards to length, I headed over to the table saw and cut a small bevel on the ends just to make it look a bit nicer.
I then took them to the drill press and counterbored two holes on each side. And after clamping them back into place on the legs, I pre-drilled and screwed them into place temporarily just to make the final glue-up go faster.
Next, I repeated the same process with the long stretchers. Starting again with the inner half and using it as a spacer to help mark the outer half. For the long stretchers I made four counterbored holes for each lap joint and again pre-drilled and temporarily screwed the stretchers in-place. Four 20" x 30" printed pages of the measured drawings, showing the bench in numerous views, exploded, and with details of each part. Extremely comprehensive and concise.
Printed on lb. History, design info, construction notes and techniques, and photos of the completed bench. Get the free construction notes here. This 3D drawing can be rotated and viewed from any angle. You can move the individual parts around and make them invisible or transparent to see exactly how the joinery works or how the vises are installed.
If you're familiar with Sketchup, this is very similar. You can download the eDrawing for free here and the viewing software here. Split Top Roubo Plans. VISES Outfitted with the Benchcrafted Crisscross, workpieces of different thickness are clamped and repositioned quickly and easily without having to change the position of a parallel guide pin.
Included in the Split Top Roubo plans. Measured Drawings Four 20" x 30" printed pages of the measured drawings, showing the bench in numerous views, exploded, and with details of each part. Techniques History, design info, construction notes and techniques, and photos of the completed bench. Add to cart. We do not offer digital plans.
Build it with a benchmaker's package Comes with everything needed to build a bench besides the wood. What's the total cost to build the bench? In addition to the Benchmaker's package cost, your total will depend on the price of your lumber and how much waste you end up with after the building process. How much lumber do I need to buy to build the Split Top Roubo?
The finished bench itself uses just under board feet. Some lumber yards won't let you do that. In that case we order board feet and use the surplus for shop projects. Read more. I don't like the split top. I'd rather have a solid, one-piece top, can I do it?
Of course. Just ignore the rear top section and build a full-width front section. Simple as that. What species should I build it out of? Short answer? Whatever you want. There are pluses and minuses to any species. We like soft maple as a generally available choice with good durability and workability. Ash, hard maple, southern yellow pine, beech, all good choices. What's the large hole at the top of the right leg for? It's an access hole. You insert a finger to push up the dog directly above it.
Why no cut list? Because they can introduce errors by promoting complacency. Blindly cutting parts without a firm grasp of what the part is and what its function is means you're not really building the bench, but trying to make a kit of parts that will hopefully fit together. It's much better to analyze each stage of construction and understand what the parts are before committing valuable stock.
Cut lists are fine, as long as you make one up yourself from the plans. Can I make the bench shorter than 87"? Just make sure you alter your dimensions properly. You'll need to make the long rails shorter, and this will affect the dog hole spacing.
You can also reduce the overhang at the left end of the bench to keep a wider footprint for the base. Don't change the overhang at the Tail Vise end. To add stability on this end if you drastically shorten the bench you can offset the right rear leg so its closer to the end of the bench.
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